‘So, it’s basically a slightly posh version of Little Chef?’ texted my mate when I said I was having lunch at the brand new Mollie’s Motel & Diner at Cribbs Causeway.
It was a fair description. After all, this upmarket roadside hotel and restaurant is owned by Nick Jones and the team behind posh celebrity hang-outs like Babington House in Somerset and Soho House in London and New York.
The only difference here, of course, is that you don’t have to be a member to enjoy Soho House’s famously slick service and attention to detail. And it’s family-friendly and affordable, too.
READ MORE:First look inside sparkling new diner and motel near Bristol
For anybody whose memory of motels are from seedy American road movies starring unhinged characters played by the likes of Dennis Hopper and Billy Bob Thornton or the Brummie hotel in the long-running TV soap opera Crossroads, think again.
Yes, Mollie’s is inspired by those classic American diners but it’s far more upmarket than that, with room prices similar to a Travelodge but with king-size beds, Egyptian cotton sheets and rainforest showers.
And then there’s the large car park for guests and the standalone diner, which is open to the public as well as hotel guests. It ticks every box for both business travellers and staycationers.
The new Cribbs Causeway Mollie’s is the second opening – the first was near Oxford – and there are now plans to roll them out across the UK. And why not, it’s a brilliant concept. Located on the roundabout that takes traffic up to The Mall, near all the upmarket car dealerships, it’s a great position for a roadside motel, even if the sight of the number two bus to Cribbs shatters any illusions of dusty road trips on Route 66.
Inside, the restaurant is light, spacious and airy with doors opening out to a small terrace with outside tables.
The bar and fully open kitchen runs down the entire length of the room, the chefs looking out across the Formica tables and blue leather booth seating, separated by retro ribbed glass partitions.
There are red plastic tomato-shaped ketchup dispensers on the tables, side lights and useful points to recharge your phone.
Mollie’s Diner at Cribbs Causeway
(Image: Mollies Diner)
In short, it looks like a cross between Happy Days and Grease. I half expected The Fonz or John Travolta to turn up in a red Cadillac and order a burger and thick milkshake.
Open from breakfast through to the evening, the menu rolls through the day. An all-day breakfast menu includes poached eggs, avocado and chilli on sourdough toast (£8.50) and a full English is £12.50.
For lunch and dinner, there are starter-size bites like sweetcorn and vegetable fritters and spicy mayo; mozzarella sticks with tomato and basil, and hot wings with blue cheese and celery. These are all £6.50-£7.50.
Main courses include burgers, hot dogs, salads and rotisserie chicken for one, two or four people – priced at £9, £16 or £32.
I started with chicken bites with barbecue sauce (£6.50) – a generous portion of nuggets in crisp, greaseless panko crumbs with good quality, juicy chicken breast within. The varnish-like sauce was fruity and slightly spicy.
This was followed by the double cheeseburger (£12) – two decent-sized, nicely seasoned beef patties in a soft, pillowy bun with slices of slowly melting American cheese, tomato, lettuce and Mollie’s sauce with a fat gherkin on the side. Fries are included in the price and they were hot, crisp, salty and just the right portion size.
Chicken bites with barbecue sauce at Mollie’s Diner
(Image: Bristol Live)
The lemon meringue pie I ordered from the dessert menu ‘hadn’t arrived’ according to the waitress, indicating that they aren’t all made on the premises but no matter.
I went for the American-style hot apple pie (£6.50) which took me right back to those mouth-destroying, napalm-like hot apple pies McDonald’s used to serve in the 1980s. A good thing.
The pastry was buttery and flaky and the molten apple filling had a waft of cinnamon. It was served with ‘plant based’ vanilla ice cream although I didn’t even realise it wasn’t the proper stuff.
Double cheeseburger from Mollie’s Diner
(Image: Bristol Live)
Mindful of it being a venue most people will drive to, the drinks menu is short but includes Bristol Beer Factory beers, classic cocktails, sodas, freshly made juices and thick milkshakes.
And you can expect the slickest Soho House-trained service from start to finish. When I spotted a tiny fleck of mint in my drink, I tried to discreetly hook it out with the tip of a knife but one of the hawk-like managers swooped over immediately to apologise and replace it straightaway. Very impressive.
American-style hot apple pie from Mollie’s Diner
(Image: Bristol Live)
Affordable American diner classics backed up by highly polished service, Mollie’s is a brilliant concept and one set to change the direction of travel for budget roadside hotels.
As I left, a well-groomed family were being shown to the table next to me.
“So you can say to your friends that you’ve been to both Mollie’s Diners during the school holidays, can’t you, darling?” purred the mum to her teenage son.
It seems like Mollie’s Diner is already a destination in its own right. I can’t wait to go back.
Mollie’s Motel and Diner, Cribbs Causeway, Bristol, BS10 7TL. Tel: 0117 3747740. More information can be found on Mollies’ website.
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